Andalusia honeymooning: two days in Cuenca

Welcome to our Andalusia trip report! We spent two weeks bouncing around southern Spain by train, bus, and foot: Madrid > Cuenca > Valencia > Granada > Malaga > Seville. If you missed the Madrid report, you can check that out here! After our two full days in that city, our next pit stop was Cuenca, on our way east to the coast.

Cuenca: Day 1

Strava map: 16 miles

Getting from Madrid to Cuenca required a very early morning wake up and a high speed Renfe train. Our bags were already packed the night before, so we quickly downed some orange juice and bread/jam and were out the door by 6 AM.

Our first time navigating the Renfe station was stressful. To get to the station, we hopped on the nearby 6:15 AM metro and assumed we’d arrive at our gate by 6:30-ish since it was a 15 min ride to the train station. However, once at the station, it was an additional 20 min walk to our gate (much like an airport, including scanning bags through security), and we didn't arrive until 6:50. And departure was Prompt: doors closed exactly at 7 AM, so we had no wiggle room for lateness. It would have been even more challenging had Uri not been fluent in Spanish to ask directions mid-run as we sprinted to find our gate.

The one hour train ride east was a sleepy haze once our heart rates settled. The high-speed travel was incredibly smooth and easy. Uri managed to squeeze in some extra sleep, though I struggled to nap in public on the whole trip. Instead, I admired the countryside rushing past through the fog as the sun rose.

The station in Cuenca was tiny, and it was a 2.50 e cash-only bus ride from station to downtown. One man was turned away for not having cash, and there was no ATM at the station. As avid walkers, we considered hiking to town (1 hr 20 min) yet decided against it (and were retroactively thankful). On the ride, it was clear there were no sidewalks, and the shoulders on the road were narrow or nonexistent for pedestrians. The outskirts of downtown were also fairly industrial and not [scenic-ly] worth walking through.

We popped off the bus nearest to Hope Coffe for breakfast. The lights were warmly lit and chic, the ambiance was cozy, and the windows were large, allowing natural light to fill the space. A breakfast favorite of ours to order has been toast with freshly pureed tomato and olive oil, alongside a mug of cafe con leche. I still haven't worked up the nerve to order anything in Spanish yet, and it's been most efficient to have Uri do all the chatting. Maybe sometime!

The downtown of Cuenca was the most residential area where regular folks worked and lived. As we meandered more to the north of town (and began ascending upward), it became clear why the city attracted tourists. This historic area was a stunning Islamic walled fortress built by the Moors that, later, became a royal town. The buildings were notably older, the stone roads were very narrow and colorful, and there were copious religious icons embedded into the walls. You could comfortably weave through all the quiet streets and always find your way back to the center.

A recurring theme to our travels (besides running for our transport) is logistical planning going awry. We had thought we would be able to drop our loaded backpacks off at a storage locker; however, once we steeply hiked to the historic center, we were hard pressed to want to descend again once we realized the locker was downtown. Instead, we decided to lug our packs around for the whole morning.

And the morning/early afternoon was an adventure, despite the extra weight. We took the opportunity to hike the scenic trails outside of town, loosely following a circuit we found online. The route began at the stunningly powerful main cathedral, the Cathedral of Saint Mary and Saint Julian, which semi-resembled the Notre Dame in Paris. From here, the route took us to a number of high overlooks that observed the walled city at different angles. As soon as we exited the historic part of town, we crossed the famous bridge (Puente de San Pablo) and gasped at the gorgeous view looking back on the city. It was hard to make out where the cliffs and walls ended and where the buildings began, all three blending together like a seamless painting. For the most part, we were also hiking alone which was a much-desired reprieve from transiting a large city (like Madrid). We soaked in the forested and vehicle-free hillsides, basking in the sun and quiet. We were positively moved by the beauty of it all.

By late afternoon, we moseyed back down to our Airbnb, which was very dramatic. They had given us both the wrong room number and the wrong codes to enter the room, though they were very responsive by phone call to fix the issue (thanks to Uri for handling the situation!). In a few days, we would be arriving in Granada after midnight, and we were concerned about having issues like this during that time of night, fingers crossed that didn't happen.

We attempted doing some minor laundry, but the washer began leaking water across the floor. Because the machine was locked, we had to complete the cycle to retrieve our clothes. So we spent 40 minutes mopping up water and ringing our towels in the sink. Despite it all, it was a welcomed break to relax inside.

Our place had a small yet functional kitchen space, so we managed a quick grocery store run (sneaking in a gelato break) to buy an easy rice and beans dinner. After winding a little more around downtown as the sun was setting, we retreated back inside for the night to cook dinner and relax. The following day, we had an out-and-back day trip planned and needed to travel early back to the bus station, so we called it an early night.

Cuenca Day 2

Strava map 1 and map 2: 15 miles

The plans for today were going to be grand. We had an Enterprise car reserved to drive 2 hours to Albarracín, another beautiful town built into the mountain side, much like Cuenca. To get there, it required driving through a large natural park, and we looked forward to seeing more of the countryside at a pace slower than the high speed train.

The ~7:30 AM bus back to to the main station out of town was thankfully simple: a 2 minute walk and a prompt pick up was the easiest transport we've had so far. However, when we arrived to the station and began speaking to the Enterprise employee, our plans were quickly squashed. They didn't have the car we reserved––only manuals. Uri can drive a manual, but he's a bit rusty, and these streets are very tiny and windy. While we were discussing our options, another couple was also disappointed. Their requested 4-wheel drive vehicle was also not there, and where they were going was forecasted to get snow. The unremorseful Enterprise man shrugged the equivalent of an Oh well, too bad.

So, we had an unexpected second day in Cuenca! In a way, we were relieved because traveling to a new place every day was slightly overwhelming, and we looked forward to immersing ourselves more in this town and understanding it more deeply. We had to get a taxi (10 e) back to town because we didn’t have enough exact cash for the bus, and there wasn’t an ATM at the station.

With no plans for today, we holed up in Melatte Coffee to figure out how to spend our last day here. Like the cafe yesterday, Melatte was adorable with warm lights, brick walls, and greenery. We ordered our classic toast with tomato and coffee and felt at home with classic oldies hits from the 60s and 70s (like Escape by Rupert Holmes). While here, we located a few other local hikes that targeted the other side of the valley, and though it would rain today, we wanted to see more of the countryside, wetness and all.

One of the attractions in this area is The Eyes, a pair of large blue painted eyes on the side of the cliff face. While we didn't make it directly to this landmark, we hiked the trail on the ridge nearby, periodically catching a glimpse of them (and them of us). The light drizzle was also charming; from under our umbrella, we sleepily enjoyed the valley with rolling mist and fog.

At the top of the ridge, a tiny, empty chapel awaited, and we had a short lunch break under the awning. It was peaceful to rest here on the stoop while the rain picked up briefly. A nearby wall had religious images and prayers collaged into the surface. The heavy Christianity embedded in the culture and buildings (via icons, large crosses, church presences), for me, was moving. Though we don't personally attend church, I respected the immense faith and devotion that was clearly core throughout Spain.

We walked along the ridge-line a while longer and eventually turned back to descend to town.

To complete our caffeination for today, we dried off in another coffee shop for café con leche and a chocolate pastry while we planned both the rest of the day and some information about our ride to Valencia tomorrow.

Our last hike for the day was to ascend to the very end of the old town and walk a circuit to the peak where the telephone towers were. After reaching the top, the sky darkened and forecasted rain, so we ran back home for a brief rest.

With it raining, and with our energy depleting, we had an unexpectedly amazing time at the free Spanish Abstract Art Museum. There was a large section for abstract paintings and sculptures, yet our favorite exhibit was a multi-floor series of massive, beautiful black-and-white photography. The talented artist impressively captured such raw emotion, activities, and interactions at important festivals and in daily life. It was the essence of humanity, and it was difficult for Uri and I to peel away from this artwork.

Afterwards, we were so exhausted but managed a quick walk around the Quaker historical museum. There were a lot of artifacts, and it would have been better suited for somebody who spoke/read Spanish to understand the informational posters.

With the money that we didn’t spend on gas + rental car to go to Albarracín, we suddenly had extra spending cash to enjoy a romantic dinner out. We decided to head to Raff, a 2024 Michelin Star restaurant, a short and rainy walk from where we were staying. At 8:30 PM on Thursday, we were the only ones there, and it was a little awkward. When movies show a couple renting out a whole restaurant to have a dinner, it comes across as romantic, but we found that our voices echoed and all the attention was on us. So, surprisingly, I wouldn't recommend it. Another couple arrived around nine 9:30 to help break the silence. Aside from being the main characters, the food was absolutely delicious. It arrived in small courses: trout with a cream sauce, stuffed leeks, gazpacho (on the house), deer + mushroom entree, and javelina.

Happy and full, we slow meandered home in the night under the warm glow of street lamps reflecting off the wet stone streets. We were so satisfied and delighted with our trip to Cuenca. It would be hard to surpass this experience the rest of our vacation.